Diamond Shapes and Cuts
Eqiux™ Diamonds stand out for their exceptional cuts, skillfully crafted to unlock each stone’s full beauty and brilliance. Since ancient times, diamonds have symbolized elegance and prestige, but the art of cutting transforms their allure into an unforgettable sparkle. While a diamond’s “shape” describes its silhouette—like round, oval, or princess—its “cut” refers to the quality and precision of how the facets are angled and polished.
At Eqiux™, we emphasize cut quality, as it directly impacts a diamond’s brilliance (white light reflections), fire (rainbow light dispersion), and scintillation (the light and dark contrasts that create visual impact as the stone moves).
Our diamonds are cut to exacting standards, maximizing these qualities to achieve a dazzling effect. From Super Ideal or Excellent grades, our cuts range to ensure each diamond captivates with its radiant sparkle and life. Eqiux™ Diamonds offer the highest level of artistry and precision, creating precious stones that reflect not only light but also the timeless craftsmanship that goes into every piece. For buyers seeking perfection, Eqiux™ is your source for diamonds that excel in both form and light performance.
Shape vs. Cut: Not to be confused!
While many people use the terms “shape” and “cut” interchangeably, they refer to distinct aspects of a diamond’s appearance and quality.
Shape
Shape refers to the overall form or outline of the diamond, such as round, oval, or princess. It’s essentially the silhouette or the geometric structure you see when you look at the diamond from above. Each shape has its unique appeal, catering to different styles and preferences.
Cut
Cut, is all about how well the diamonds facets—the tiny, flat surfaces cut into the diamond interact with light.
Diamond Cut Styles
Diamond cuts can generally be categorized into three main styles: “step cuts”, “brilliant cuts”, and “mixed cuts”. Each of these cutting styles includes various shapes or “overall cuts” that apply these styles uniquely to achieve different visual effects.
Step Cut Style: Characterized by rectangular facets arranged in parallel lines, the step cut emphasizes clarity and luster. The most popular shapes that use the step cut are:
- Emerald: Rectangular with cropped corners, known for its mirror-like clarity.
- Asscher: Square with cropped corners, giving a similar look to the emerald cut but with a distinctive “X” pattern when viewed from above.
Step cuts suit diamonds with high clarity since the open facets can reveal inclusions more easily.
Brilliant Cut Style: This style is designed to maximize sparkle, using a combination of triangular and kite-shaped facets that create intense brilliance by reflecting light within the diamond. Brilliant cuts are the most popular choice due to their sparkle. Common shapes include:
- Round Brilliant: The most popular and sparkly cut, ideal for maximizing light reflection.
- Princess: A square shape that combines sparkle with a modern feel, typically with pointed corners.
- Oval, Marquise, and Pear Shapes: These are elongated brilliant cuts, each with unique silhouettes that retain the brilliant style’s brightness.
Brilliant cuts are suitable for diamonds across different clarity ranges, as their facets are designed to mask inclusions effectively.
Mixed Cut Style: Mixed cuts combine elements of both step and brilliant cuts to balance sparkle with the elegant, reflective qualities of a step cut. These cuts are often used to retain as much weight from the rough stone as possible while adding brilliance. Examples include:
- Radiant: A rectangular or square shape that combines the sparkle of a brilliant cut with the step-cut facets around the pavilion.
- Cushion : A square or rectangular shape with rounded corners, featuring both brilliant-style and larger facets to enhance sparkle while showing depth.
Diamond Cut Quality
The “Cut Quality” of a diamond is determined by a number of factors, including its “proportions”, “symmetry”, and “polish”.
Here is the order of evaluation used by the GIA and IGI of the Cut Quality to give a diamond its Cut Grade.
Proportions: This refers to the overall geometry of the diamond, including the angles and dimensions of its facets.
Proportions are a key factor in determining how well the diamond interacts with light. They are integral to the overall Cut Grade.
Symmetry: This evaluates the alignment and balance of the diamond’s facets, ensuring they are precisely positioned and proportionate.
Symmetry affects how evenly the diamond reflects light.
Polish: This focuses on the surface finish of the diamond, ensuring it is smooth and free of blemishes caused during the cutting process.
Polish impacts the diamond’s surface luster and transparency.
The Diamond Cut Quality is of most importance so ensure the diamond looks its very best. The quality of the cut directly affects its “Brilliance”, “Fire”, and “Scintillation”.
- Brilliance: The brilliance of a diamond refers to the white light reflections within the diamond.
- Fire: The fire in a diamond refers to the dispersion of light into rainbow colors.
- Scintillation: The scintillation is the pattern of light and dark areas caused by reflections as the diamond moves.
Hearts and Arrows
Hearts and Arrows is a visually appealing pattern that indicates a diamond’s exceptional symmetry and precision, often seen in well-cut round brilliant diamonds.
When viewed through a Hearts and Arrows viewer, which is a simple handheld device or loupe that uses colored filters (typically red, blue, or black) to isolate light reflections inside the diamond, a clear view of the symmetrical patterns can be seen which is caused by the precision faceting of the diamond.
Diamond placement: The diamond is placed with its pavilion side, or table side facing the viewer, depending on whether you want to see the hearts or arrows.
Light Interaction: Light reflects within the diamond’s facets, and the viewer’s filters highlight the symmetrical patterns.
Arrows are seen from the top (crown view).
Hearts are visible from the bottom (pavilion view).
Note: Although Hearts and Arrows are a visual feature of a diamond, they are not classed as a measurable grading criterion. While Hearts and Arrows may suggest ideal facet alignment and proportion, it does not provide the precise, standardized measurements that labs like GIA and IGI require for formal grading.
Symmetry assessments by GIA and IGI are based on measurable criteria, such as facet alignment and proportions, offering a more accurate and consistent evaluation of a diamond’s cut quality, making Hearts and Arrows a useful but informal visual guide.
Diamond Cut Grades
The “Cut Grade” of a diamond reflects how well a diamond’s Proportions, Symmetry, and Polish work together to maximize light reflection in the diamond.
Cut Grades typically range from: Super Ideal/Excellent, to Very Good, Good, Fair, and Poor, with higher grades indicating better brilliance and sparkle.
Super Ideal/Excellent: Maximizes brilliance, exceptional sparkle and light performance.
Very Good: Excellent brilliance with slight room for improvement.
Good: Noticeable brilliance, but less sparkle than higher grades.
Fair: Reduced brilliance, some light performance issues.
Poor: Minimal sparkle, significant light leakage.
Summary
In summary, while shape defines a precious stone’s physical form (round, oval, pear, etc.), cut influences the stone’s performance in terms of light reflection and sparkle.
In essence, the “Cut” determines how dazzling and lively the diamond appears when light hits it.
Eqiux™ Diamonds are always of the best possible cut quality for the given natural stone, hence offering vastly different and appealing visual effect compared to other brand diamonds. When you choose an Eqiux™ Diamond you are assured to enjoy the appearance and sparkle you desire.
15 Most Popular Classic Diamond Shapes
1. Round Brilliant.
Round Brilliant is by far the most popular and well-known diamond shape. It is often considered the most classic and versatile, known for its exceptional brilliance and sparkle. A round diamond has 58 facets (57 if the culet, or the point at the bottom, is excluded), allowing light to reflect through the stone in a way that maximizes its sparkle and fire.
Complexity and Cutting
Cutting a round brilliant diamond requires precise mathematical calculations. The goal is to achieve the perfect angles and symmetry to ensure optimal light reflection. Any slight error in proportions can affect the diamond’s brilliance, making this cut demanding in terms of precision.
Value
Round brilliant diamonds tend to be the most expensive shape. This is because the cutting process wastes more of the rough diamond, and the demand for round diamonds is consistently high
2. Princess.
Princess is another highly popular diamond shape, especially for engagement rings. It has a square or rectangular face with sharp, 90-degree corners. Known for its contemporary look, the princess cut also provides excellent brilliance, second only to the round brilliant. The cut typically has between 50 and 58 facets, depending on the design, which enhances its sparkle.
Complexity and Cutting
The princess cut requires a high level of skill to maintain its sharp corners while maximizing brilliance. The cutting process retains more of the rough diamond, making it an efficient cut in terms of material wastage compared to the round brilliant.
Value
Princess-cut diamonds offer a more affordable option compared to round diamonds, partly because less rough diamond is wasted during cutting.
3. Cushion.
Cushion, also known as a “pillow-shape,” is a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners, giving it a soft and vintage appeal. It combines the charm of an old-world design with modern brilliance. Cushion cuts are known for their larger facets, which allow for more light to enter the stone, enhancing its fire (the dispersion of light into spectral colors).
Complexity and Cutting
Cutting a cushion diamond requires balancing its large facets with the overall symmetry and brilliance. While not as complex as the round or princess cut, the cushion cut demands skill to ensure it has even proportions and light performance.
Value
Cushion-cut diamonds are generally more affordable than round and princess cuts, making them a popular choice for those seeking vintage elegance on a budget.
4. Oval.
Oval is an elongated version of the round brilliant, offering a similar sparkle with a more slender, graceful appearance. It has 56 facets and, because of its elongated shape, it can create the illusion of greater size, making it an attractive option for those looking to maximize carat weight.
Complexity and Cutting
The oval cut requires a careful balance of proportions to avoid the “bow-tie effect”—a dark area that can appear in the center of the stone due to poor light distribution. While not the most complex cut, achieving the perfect symmetry and avoiding this effect makes it a challenging shape to master.
Value
Oval diamonds tend to be less expensive than round diamonds but can offer a similar visual size due to their elongated shape.
5. Marquise.
Marquise, also known as the “navette” or american football-shaped diamond, has pointed ends and an elongated body. This shape creates the illusion of a larger diamond and makes fingers appear longer and more slender. The marquise typically has 58 facets, and when cut well, it displays great brilliance.
Complexity and Cutting
The marquise cut is quite complex due to its pointed ends, which are susceptible to chipping. Achieving symmetry between the two pointed tips is critical, as any imbalance can affect the overall beauty of the diamond. Cutters must be meticulous to avoid the bow-tie effect, as with the oval cut.
Value
Marquise-cut diamonds generally cost less than round diamonds but offer a large surface area, making them appear larger.
6. Emerald.
Emerald is a rectangular shape with step cuts, creating a unique hall-of-mirrors effect. This cut emphasizes the diamond’s clarity and color more than its brilliance. The emerald cut has 58 facets, but unlike other shapes, its large, open facets provide a subtle yet elegant look.
Complexity and Cutting
Cutting an emerald diamond is highly specialized. The large, open facets can make inclusions (internal imperfections) and color more visible, so the rough diamond must have excellent clarity. Achieving symmetry in the step cuts is essential to ensure that the diamond reflects light uniformly.
Value
Emerald-cut diamonds are generally less expensive than round diamonds but can be more costly than some other fancy shapes due to the high clarity requirements.
7. Asscher.
Asscher is similar to the emerald shape but has a square shape. It features step cuts and a high crown, creating a mesmerizing geometric appearance. It is often associated with the Art Deco period, making it a favorite for vintage-inspired designs.
Complexity and Cutting
Like the emerald cut, the Asscher cut demands a high level of craftsmanship to ensure clean step cuts and flawless symmetry. Inclusions are more noticeable, so high clarity is essential.
Value
Asscher-cut diamonds are typically less expensive than round and princess cuts but may cost more than cushion or oval cuts.
8. Pear.
Pear shape, or teardrop, is a blend of the round and marquise shapes, with one rounded end and one pointed end. This shape offers a unique, feminine appearance and can elongate the fingers. Pear-shaped diamonds typically have 58 facets, allowing for good brilliance.
Complexity and Cutting
The pear shape is challenging to cut due to its pointed end, which can easily chip. Symmetry is crucial, as an imbalanced pear cut can appear distorted. Cutters must also avoid the bow-tie effect to ensure optimal light performance.
Value
Pear-cut diamonds tend to be more affordable than round diamonds but offer an elegant, distinctive look.
9. Heart.
Heart is the ultimate symbol of love and romance. It’s a modified brilliant cut, typically featuring 56-58 facets. The heart shape is one of the most distinctive and is often chosen for sentimental reasons.
Complexity and Cutting
Heart-shaped diamonds are incredibly complex to cut. Achieving perfect symmetry between the two lobes and the sharpness of the cleft is vital to the stone’s appearance. Even minor imperfections can distort the heart shape, making it one of the most difficult cuts to master.
Value
Heart-shaped diamonds are generally less expensive than round diamonds but more expensive than some of the other fancy cuts, due to the difficulty of achieving perfect symmetry.
10. Radiant.
Radiant combines the elegance of the emerald shape with the brilliance of the round and princess shapes. It features a rectangular or square shape with cut corners and a faceted pattern that enhances its sparkle. The radiant cut typically has 70 facets, making it one of the most brilliant among square or rectangular-shaped diamonds.
Complexity and Cutting
The radiant cut requires a high level of craftsmanship because it merges the step-cut facets of an emerald with the brilliant-cut facets of a round. This combination makes it challenging to achieve perfect symmetry and maximize brilliance. The extra facets help hide inclusions and enhance the stone’s fire.
Value
Radiant-cut diamonds tend to be less expensive than round diamonds, though they offer exceptional brilliance and are a popular choice for those who want a unique rectangular shape with more sparkle than an emerald cut.
11. Octagon.
Octagon, sometimes referred to as a modified step cut, resembles the emerald or Asscher cut but with eight sides. This shape is a variation of the emerald cut, with beveled edges that create a more geometric and angular appearance. Octagon diamonds tend to have fewer facets than brilliant cuts, emphasizing the clarity and color of the stone rather than brilliance.
Complexity and Cutting
The octagon cut requires precision to ensure that all eight sides are symmetrical. Its large, open facets highlight the stone’s clarity, making any inclusions more noticeable. Similar to the emerald and Asscher cuts, the octagon cut showcases a “hall of mirrors” effect, where light reflects off the step-cut facets to create depth.
Value
Octagon-cut diamonds tend to be more affordable than round diamonds, but due to their unique shape, they can cost more than traditional step cuts like the emerald or Asscher.
12. Trillion.
Trillion (or Trilliant) is a triangular diamond shape with curved or straight edges. It has either 31 or 50 facets, depending on how it’s cut, and is known for its unique, bold appearance. Trillion (Trilliant) diamonds can be used as center stones or side stones in jewelry designs, often enhancing the brilliance and fire of other diamonds when set together.
Complexity and Cutting
The Trillion (Trilliant) cut requires a high level of expertise to balance the triangular shape and achieve symmetry. Its pointed corners are prone to chipping, so proper cutting and setting are crucial to protect the stone. Trillion (Trilliant) diamonds offer a striking, modern appearance and can display excellent brilliance due to their shallow depth.
Value
Trillion-cut (Trilliant-cut) diamonds tend to be more affordable per carat compared to round diamonds. They make an excellent choice for those looking for something unconventional and eye-catching while still maintaining good brilliance.
13. Half Moon.
Half Moon, as the name suggests, resembles a half-circle or crescent shape. It’s commonly used as a side stone in engagement rings and other jewelry designs to complement a larger center stone. Half moon diamonds can have straight or curved edges, offering a subtle yet elegant look.
Complexity and Cutting
The symmetry in a half moon diamond is essential to its beauty. Cutting the curved and flat sides evenly requires precision to ensure balance in the design. The cut is often shallow, allowing for significant light reflection, but care must be taken to avoid dullness from poor proportions.
Value
Half moon diamonds are typically more affordable than many other shapes, especially because they’re commonly used as accent stones rather than centerpieces.
14. Baguette.
Baguette is a rectangular, step-cut diamond known for its long, straight facets and simple, elegant appearance. Baguette diamonds are typically narrow and elongated, making them ideal for side stones or accent stones in rings. They focus on clarity rather than brilliance, as they don’t sparkle as much as brilliant cuts.
Complexity and Cutting
Baguette diamonds are relatively simple in design but require precise cutting to achieve straight, parallel facets. The step-cut pattern is designed to highlight the stone’s clarity and luster, so any inclusions or imperfections will be more noticeable.
Value
Baguette diamonds are generally less expensive than round brilliant or princess cuts, especially since they are often used as side stones or in eternity bands.
15. Kite.
Kite resembles the shape of a kite, with four or six unequal sides, wider at the top and coming together at a sharp point. This cut is commonly used as a fancy shape in custom jewelry, and it is often used as an accent stone to create geometric or art deco-inspired designs.
Complexity and Cutting
Cutting a kite diamond requires precision to maintain the symmetry of its asymmetrical shape. The sharp point of the kite can be prone to chipping, so it requires careful handling and setting to protect it.
Value
Kite-shaped diamonds are relatively rare and usually used as accent stones in creative settings. Their unique shape can increase their price slightly, but they are generally more affordable than more traditional shapes like round or princess cuts.
Other Diamond Shapes
Ball: A perfectly round, multi-faceted diamond that reflects light from all directions, offering maximum brilliance and a unique, spherical appearance with timeless charm.
Bullet: A sleek, tapered diamond shape resembling a bullet or missile, featuring sharp lines and an elongated body that gives it a streamlined, contemporary appeal.
Briolette: A tear-shaped, faceted diamond that is fully cut for 360-degree sparkle, offering a vintage, romantic look with a dazzling, brilliant surface from all angles.
Calf: A rare 6-sided diamond with a calf’s head resemblance and can be brilliant or step cut. Very versatile as side stones due to the fact that they can be used with many different shapes of center diamonds.
Coffin: A dramatic, edgy diamond with a shape resembling a coffin, typically used in gothic or unconventional jewelry for a bold, distinctive look.
Cushion Square: A square-shaped diamond with rounded, pillow-like edges and brilliant-cut facets, combining vintage charm with a modern, soft appearance and excellent light reflection.
Drop: A diamond shape often used interchangeably with Pear shape. However, Drop shape is often categorized as a narrower version of the Pear Shape, likened to a narrow water droplet instead of a fat or wide water droplet. The Drop shape diamond combines elegance with brilliance for a graceful appearance.
Emerald Square: A step-cut diamond with a square shape and beveled corners, offering a sophisticated, symmetrical look that highlights the stone’s clarity over brilliance.
Epaulette: A trapezoidal step-cut diamond, often used as an accent stone in high-end jewelry, known for its clean lines and sophisticated, angular design. The distinctive shape resembles the shoulder ornaments on military uniforms.
Fan: A unique diamond resembling a fan with a curved top and a pointed base, often used for accent stones in custom or art deco-inspired designs.
Hexagon: A six-sided geometric diamond that can feature step or brilliant cuts, providing a bold, angular appearance in vintage and contemporary jewelry.
Horseshoe: A unique U-shaped diamond cut, resembling a horseshoe, often used in custom, one-of-a-kind jewelry.
Keystone: A triangular diamond with one wider end and tapering sides, resembling a keystone in architecture, offering a modern, bold shape with angular brilliance.
Lozenge: A diamond shape resembling a diamond or kite, with elongated, symmetrical sides that create a striking, elegant appearance and enhance its brilliance through sharp facets.
Mine: A square or rectangular diamond with large facets and a chunky, vintage-inspired appearance, emphasizing clarity and fire with a classic, antique feel.
Pentagonal: A five-sided diamond with crisp facets, showcasing a bold, modern aesthetic that provides a balance between angularity and sparkle for a truly distinctive look.
Radiant Square: A square diamond with cropped corners and a brilliant-cut facet pattern, combining the sharp lines of a square with the dazzling sparkle of a round-cut diamond.
Rhomboid: A quadrilateral-shaped diamond with parallel opposite sides, creating a geometric, modern look with a sleek profile and excellent light play from its unique angles.
Rose: A vintage diamond cut with a flat base and a domed top made of triangular facets, offering an old-world charm with soft, radiant brilliance.
Seminavette: A modified marquise-like shape with a more rounded or elongated center, creating a smooth, elegant outline often used in antique or custom jewelry.
Shield: A diamond shape resembling a protective shield, with bold angular facets and a wide base, offering a unique, striking look that balances symmetry with brilliance.
Tapered Baguette: A narrow, rectangular step-cut diamond with one end narrower than the other. Commonly used as side stones to complement center diamonds in engagement rings.
Trapezoid: A four-sided diamond with two parallel sides and two non-parallel, offering an eye-catching geometric design with strong symmetry and reflective brilliance.
Triangle: A three-sided diamond with sharp or slightly rounded edges, offering a bold, modern look with brilliant or step-cut facets for extra sparkle.
Whistle: A uniquely shaped diamond with a long, narrow profile and subtle curves, resembling a whistle, perfect for creating a playful yet refined look with gentle brilliance.